· Our local wildlife rescue groups are much better equipped at handling and housing wildlife than we are. That’s what they do. That’s what they specialize in. Our focus is and always has been dogs and cats.

· Wildlife Rescue and Rehabilitation can be reached at 698-1709 or (830)336-2725. They have information on more humane ways to either live with or deter wild animals without having to resort to a potentially dangerous trap.

· A.C.S. is working towards a “no kill” goal for 2012 and trapping animals who aren’t threatening the public doesn’t fit into our new way of thinking.

· Our current facility was built with ONLY dogs and cats in mind. There’s safety issues involved for our staff dealing with wild animals as well.

· Revising the Trap Policy is actually a cost SAVINGS to the taxpayer. No added expense or time of dealing with animals outside our TRUE scope of responsibility---that is, dogs and cats.

· There are several private companies in San Antonio that will trap/pickup wild animals FOR A FEE. Residents can check out the Yellow Pages under “animal rescue and removal services” or “pest control”

Suspect the animal may be rabid or it’s actually injured someone? Here’s what to do:

· Of course, it’s VITALLY important a pet or person whose been injured by wildlife receive IMMEDIATE medical attention.

· It’s always best to leave wildlife alone. Don’t touch them. Don’t bother them.

· Animal Care Services will ALWAYS respond to incidents where a wild animal has bitten or scratched a person or a pet. Please notify our Animal Control Officers if the animal is showing signs of rabies. Those symptoms include not eating or eating of strange things like sticks or rocks, clumsiness, unusual snapping, foaming at the mouth, biting and a “vacant” or crazed look.

· Potentially rabid animals showing any of these signs will be tested and the citizen will be contacted if tests come back positive.

• Identified by a distinctive pattern of alternating black and white rings around a large, bushy tail. Also, a unique narrow black face “mask” with two white patched above the eyes.
• Average 2-3 feet long, 12 inches high, and weigh 8 – 22 lbs.
• Lifespan: average is 5 years, max between 10 – 12 years
• Range: Most of U.S. and southern Canada. Moving further into Canada because of habitat loss in the States
• Omnivorous: typically eat insects, rodents, frogs, fish, snakes, fruit, and nuts. They are opportunists, so they will generally eat whatever plant or animal food that is available.
• Predators: Humans, Dog packs, traps, and automobiles, few larger predators

Behavior:
 

• Nocturnal, Raccoons have excellent night vision.
• Prefer to den in hollow trees or logs because they are warm, dark, quiet, and easily protected. In urban environments, likely substitutes are chimneys, attics, basements, and drainpipes.
• Raccoons have incredible dexterity, they use their front feet for finding food in water, opening shellfish, and conveying food to the mouth. In urban environments, they use this dexterity to open garbage cans and pet food storage containers.
• Raccoons may appear bold by fluffing out their fur so that they appear larger and uttering a throaty growl or cry, but they are not aggressive animals unless they are defending their young.

Health Facts:
 

Source: www.wildlifemanagement.info
 

• Raccoons are capable of carrying disease such as rabies, distemper, and parvovirus just like all other species of mammal (including humans). Be familiar with some symptoms such as paralysis, unsteadiness, discharges from nose and eyes or extreme lethargy and call your local wildlife rehabilitation center if you think an animal is in trouble.
• Less than 1 out of 200 Raccoons have even been exposed to rabies, even less actually contract the disease.
• There are vaccinations for these diseases available for your pets. They are fully protected if they remain up to date on their shots.
   

Wildlife Rescue & Rehabilitation, Inc. Contact Info:
24-Hour Hotline: Address: www.wildlife-rescue.org
(210) 698-1709 335 Old Blanco Rd.
(830)336-2725 Kendalia , TX 78027
 

Should you find an animal in crisis, or need emergency assistance with a wild animal, please contact WRR, 24-hours a day.
 

Common Raccoon Calls
 

1) “I have a Raccoon living in my chimney, how do I get him to leave?”
 

In many ways, chimneys seem like ideal replacement homes for Raccoons who would typically den in hollow trees or logs. This is a common problem for homeowners and a potentially dangerous situation for the animals.
 

In most cases, the Raccoons are fully capable of coming and going as they please. In this case, repel techniques are the most effective. Keep in mind that they have chosen your chimney because it is warm, dark, and quiet, so the best way to get him/her to leave is by changing what they find inviting. Placing ammonia soaked rags in the chimney and playing loud music during the day will discourage the Raccoons from taking up residence. Allow a few days for the Raccoon to remove her family in case there are babies present and when you are positive all of the Raccoons are gone, be sure to get the chimney capped to prevent further occurrences.

2) “I have a Raccoon living in my attic/underneath my deck, how do I get him to leave?”
 

First thing you want to do is make sure the Raccoon has one easy-to-locate exit. Block all other exits. Obtain six to twelve, one inch strips of fabric, tie them in tight knots and soak them in household ammonia. Then, wearing rubber gloves, place these under the deck or in the attic where the Raccoon has been seen or heard. Next, buy cayenne pepper at 90,000 heat units which can be found at your local natural foods store, Whole Foods or Sun Harvest. Sprinkle the pepper generously in areas that the animal has been seen coming and going such as a hole leading under the deck or around trees that give the animal access to the attic. Animals cannot tolerate the presence of the pepper and they will vacate the area. Note: pets and children should not have access to the pepper! Lights and loud music during the day also disturbs Raccoons who sleep during these hours. Once these techniques are used for several days, tape a piece of newspaper over the hole. If it is not disturbed for several more days, you are now safe to cover the hole securely, preventing Raccoons or other animals from coming back in.

3) “How can I stop Raccoons from getting into my trashcan?”
 

Understand that accessible garbage is a regular smorgasbord for hungry animals like Raccoons, Opossums, and Skunks, but the only way they can gain access is if Humans let them. So how do you animal-proof your garbage can? First, be sure you have a lid that fits tightly. If this isn’t possible, you might try hooking a bungee cord from one side of the can to the other to secure the lid. Or you could try placing a large rock on top of the lid to secure it. Usually Raccoons gain entry into garbage cans by tipping them over. For this reason it helps to have the cans stored in racks or tied in an upright position. Most native wildlife is nocturnal and thus usually feed at night, so put your garbage out the morning of pick-up instead of in the evening. Ask your neighbors to do the same.
 

4) “I have a Raccoon in my trap and I would like him removed.”
 

If you are willing to do so, here is how to release the raccoon yourself:

Cover the trap with an old tarp or sheet while you transport the animal; this makes the ordeal less stressful for the Raccoon. The best release sites are wooded areas with an abundant water source. Once there, prop the door of the trap open and the Raccoon should leave on his/her own with in a few minutes.

Call Wildlife Rescue & Rehabilitation If you are not willing to release the raccoon yourself.

Remember, attempting to use traps as a means of wildlife control is an ineffective means of removing wildlife because removing one animal simply opens up a niche for other animals to come in.

Reasons NOT to Live Trap
 

Live trapping is an ineffective means of controlling wildlife in your yard. By trapping and removing and wild animal you are simply creating a vacancy for more animals to move in. It is more effective to ask yourself why the animals are finding your yard appealing (the answer will probably be either food, water, or shelter) and what you can do to remove what it is that the animal is finding appealing, repel the animal from your yard, and prevent them from returning. Exclusion methods and some degree of tolerance are ultimately more successful and lasting.

Live trapping should never be an option between early spring to early fall. This is the time when most species of native wildlife are having their young and there may be babies in, under, or around your house that are entirely dependent on their mother for food and protection. Any action that prevents the mother from caring for her young will result in suffering for her and a slow death for the babies. Since the family will not stay forever, or even for a very long time (a month or two, perhaps less), it is better to wait until the family vacates and then take action that will prevent the same thing from happening again.

For more information or tips on how to deal with Urban Wildlife:

Wildlife Rescue & Rehabilitation, Inc.
www.wildlife-rescue.org
(210)698-1709

Humane Society of the United States
www.hsus.org

PETA
www.peta.org

Animal Protection Institute
www.api4animals.org

Defenders of Wildlife
www.defenders.org

Natural History:

Source: www.projectwildlife.org
 

• There are 4 species of Skunk in North America, Striped being the most common.
• About the size of a house cat; measure 20 to 30 inches long and weigh 6 to 10 lbs.
• Skunks have a small head and eyes, pointed snout, and strong forefeet and long nails for digging.
• Range: Central Canada, throughout the United States, and south into the northern parts of Mexico.
• Omnivorous: feeding on small rodents, lizards, frogs, birds, insects, eggs, acorns, and fallen fruit. Skunks are beneficial in keeping the rodent population in check and it is estimated that 70 % of a Skunk’s diet consists of insects considered harmful to humans such as black widow spiders and scorpions.
• Predators: Humans (automobiles), and Great-Horned Owls

Behavior:
 

• Generally nocturnal, begin foraging at sunset.
• Infamous means of self-defense: Skunks have the ability to spray their enemies with a chemical compound that burns the eyes and nose of their target and can sometimes cause nausea. This is a last resort. If approached and they’re unable to flee, Skunks will fluff their fur, shake their tail, stamp the ground, and sometimes stand on their hind legs before spraying.
• In the wild, Skunks den in shallow burrows or hollow logs near water sources. In urban environments, they den beneath buildings, decks, dumps, and woodpiles.

Health Facts:
 

• Skunks are capable of carrying disease such as rabies, distemper, and parvovirus just like all other species of mammal (including humans). Be familiar with some symptoms such as paralysis, unsteadiness, discharges from nose and eyes or extreme lethargy and call your local wildlife rehabilitation center if you think an animal is in trouble.
• There are vaccinations for these diseases available for your pets. They are fully protected if they remain up to date on their shots.

Wildlife Rescue & Rehabilitation, Inc. Contact Info:

24-Hour Hotline: Address: www.wildlife-rescue.org
(210) 698-1709 335 Old Blanco Rd.
(830)336-2725 Kendalia , TX 78027

Should you find an animal in crisis, or need emergency assistance with a wild animal, please contact WRR, 24-hours a day.

Common Skunk Calls:

1) “My pet has been sprayed by a Skunk, what do I do?”

Occasionally a person or an animal surprises a Skunk in a situation where he/she cannot retreat and the Skunk will spray in self-defense. In this case, the quicker you take action, the more completely you can remove the odor. If the animal has been sprayed in the eyes, it’s important to flush them liberally with cold water ASAP. The spray is extremely irritating, but does not cause permanent damage. We recommend a De-Skunking Shampoo made up of:

• 1 quart peroxide
• ¼ C baking soda
• 1 Tbs. liquid hand soap.

Mix all ingredients together and shampoo the animal thoroughly keeping out of eyes, nose, and mouth. Soak 5 minutes and rinse well.
 

2) “I have a Skunk living under my porch/deck/house, how do I get him to leave?”
 

First thing you want to do is make sure the Skunk has one easy-to-locate exit. Block all other exits. Obtain six to twelve, one inch strips of fabric, tie them in tight knots and soak them in household ammonia. Then, wearing rubber gloves, place these under the deck/porch/house where ever the Skunk has been seen, smelled, or heard. Next, buy cayenne pepper at 90,000 heat units which can be found at your local natural foods store, Whole Foods or Sun Harvest. Sprinkle the pepper generously in areas that the animal has been seen coming and going such as a hole leading under the deck. Animals cannot tolerate the presence of the pepper and they will vacate the area. Note: pets and children should not have access to the pepper! Lights and loud music during the day also disturbs Skunks who sleep during these hours. Once these techniques are used for several days, tape a piece of newspaper over the hole. If it is not disturbed for several more days, you are now safe to cover the hole securely, preventing Skunks or other animals from coming back in.

Often Skunks are drawn to certain houses because they are either feeding their companion animals outside or they have easily accessible garbage. Either one of these things are open invitations for Skunks and other animals to set up camp in or around your home. Pet food should never be left open outside and all garbage must be properly secured to prevent problems before they start.

3) “I have a Skunk who keeps digging in my garden, how do I keep him out?”

Protecting a garden from Skunks, Raccoons, and Opossums can be more difficult than protecting your home. In rural areas, low voltage electric fencing may help protect gardens and crops from damage. By installing fencing that is buried at least 1 ½ ft. into the ground, you can avoid Skunks digging into your garden.

If sod destruction is the problem, the only precaution you can take is to drive long wire pins or wooden stakes into the sod to hold it down until it takes roots. However, keep in mind that a serious June bug problem (which animals such as Skunks, Raccoons, and Opossums eat) may ultimately do more damage than the animals.

4) “I have a Skunk in my trap and I would like him removed.”

Ask the caller if they would be willing to release the Skunk themselves if you could talk them through the process. If they are willing to do so, instruct them to cover the trap with an old tarp or sheet while they are transporting the animal, this makes the ordeal less stressful for the Skunk and prevents them from spraying you directly if the Skunk chooses to do so. Explain that the best release sites are wooded areas with an abundant water source. Once there, prop the door of the trap open and the Skunk should leave on his/her own with in a few minutes.

If the caller is not willing to release the Skunk themselves, have them call Wildlife Rescue & Rehabilitation.

Educate callers that are attempting to use traps as a means of wildlife control on the futility of trapping. Trapping is an ineffective means of removing wildlife because removing one animal simply opens up a niche for other animals to come in.

Reasons NOT to Live Trap

Live trapping is an ineffective means of controlling wildlife in your yard. By trapping and removing and wild animal you are simply creating a vacancy for more animals to move in. It is more effective to ask yourself why the animals are finding your yard appealing (the answer will probably be either food, water, or shelter) and what you can do to remove what it is that the animal is finding appealing, repel the animal from your yard, and prevent them from returning. Exclusion methods and some degree of tolerance are ultimately more successful and lasting.

Live trapping should never be an option between early spring to early fall. This is the time when most species of native wildlife are having their young and there may be babies in, under, or around your house that are entirely dependent on their mother for food and protection. Any action that prevents the mother from caring for her young will result in suffering for her and a slow death for the babies. Since the family will not stay forever, or even for a very long time (a month or two, perhaps less), it is better to wait until the family vacates and then take action that will prevent the same thing from happening again.

For more information or tips on how to deal with Urban Wildlife:

Wildlife Rescue & Rehabilitation, Inc.
www.wildlife-rescue.org
(210)698-1709 / (830) 336-2715

Texas Parks and Wildlife
Toll Free: (800) 792-1112, Austin: (512) 389-4800
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/ 

Humane Society of the United States
www.hsus.org

PETA
www.peta.org

Animal Protection Institute
www.api4animals.org

Defenders of Wildlife
www.defenders.org

Source: www.projectwildlife.org
 

• Squirrels, depending on the species, can be between 8 - 15 inches long and weigh anywhere from 1 to 3 lbs.; coloration is grayish brown with buff flecks. They have short ears and legs and strong front claws.
• Their teeth never stop growing. They must continue gnawing to wear them down so that they can close their mouths and so their teeth don’t grow into their skulls, eventually killing them.
• Squirrels have the ability to close their mouths while leaving their front teeth exposed for digging.
• Lifespan: Can live 5 – 12 years
• Herbivores: eat mainly plant material, including roots, stems, bark, shoots, leaves, flowers, fruit, and nuts. Occasionally they will prey on insects, eggs, and very small mammals.
• Predators: Humans (automobiles), foxes, weasels, and hawks.

Behavior:
 

• Diurnal: active during the day and sleep at night
• In colder parts of their range, Squirrels hibernate in burrows during the winter.
• Carry seeds/nuts in their cheek pouches to build large stores underground. Squirrels are very beneficial for plant life by dispersing and planting the seeds of trees, flowers, and plants.
• When confronted, Squirrels flick their tails in order to distract their predator.

Health Facts:
 

• Squirrels really pose no health risk to humans.

Wildlife Rescue & Rehabilitation, Inc. Contact Info:

24-Hour Hotline: Address: www.wildlife-rescue.org
(210) 698-1709 335 Old Blanco Rd.
(830)336-2725 Kendalia , TX 78027

Should you find an animal in crisis, or need emergency assistance with a wild animal, please contact WRR, 24-hours a day.

Common Squirrel Calls

1) “I have Squirrels in my attic/chimney/walls, what do I do?”
 

First thing you want to do is determine where the Squirrel is getting in and out (the chimney is fairly obvious). If there is more than one entrance/exit, block all of them except for one easy-to-locate spot. Obtain six to twelve, one inch strips of fabric, tie them in tight knots and soak them in household ammonia. Then, wearing rubber gloves, place these in the attic, chimney, or wall where the Squirrel has been seen or heard. Next, buy cayenne pepper at 90,000 heat units which can be found at your local natural foods store, Whole Foods or Sun Harvest. Sprinkle the pepper generously in areas that the animal has been seen coming and going near the hole, on the roof, or around trees that give the animal access to the attic. Animals cannot tolerate the presence of the pepper and they will vacate the area. Note: pets and children should not have access to the pepper! Lights and loud music at night also disturbs Squirrels who sleep during these hours. Once these techniques are used for several days, tape a piece of newspaper over the hole. If it is not disturbed for several more days, you are now safe to cover the hole or cap your chimney securely, preventing Squirrels or other animals from coming back in.

2) “How do I keep Squirrels out of my bird feeders?”
 

The best way to keep Squirrels out of your feeders is by installing feeders that are not easily accessible to them. Hanging feeders are not recommended because Squirrels can climb down the line or shake the line until the food falls to the ground. Instead, install a free-standing feeder on a metal pole at least 6 ft high. Squirrels are excellent climbers and jumpers so you want to install it away from tree limbs, shrubs, and other easy “boosters.” And remember, Squirrels often eat the same things as birds, like seeds, nuts, and fruit, so try not to blame the animal. To him/her “bird” feeders might as well be “squirrel” feeders.

3) “Squirrels are chewing on the wiring in my car, what can I do?”
 

This is a fairly common problem that can be solved by some simple repel techniques. (1) Cayenne pepper: you will need the 90,000 heat unit cayenne pepper that can be obtained in natural food stores such as Whole Foods and Sun Harvest. Sprinkle the pepper all over the wiring in your car, this should deter any chewing. Apply liberally and often. (2) Moth balls: Keep socks with moth balls under your hood when the car is not running. This acts as a repellent much like ammonia soaked rags; Squirrels detect the chemical and find some other place to chew. Remember to remove the moth balls before starting your car. (3) Store-bought repellent: You can buy certain products at hardware stores that act as animal repellents. Make sure that the one you choose is non-toxic to pets, children, and wildlife. Look for products that simulate or contain urine of predator species such as foxes and coyotes. Use as directed and the Squirrel(s) should make home elsewhere.

Reasons NOT to Live Trap
 

Live trapping is an ineffective means of controlling wildlife in your yard. By trapping and removing a wild animal you are simply creating a vacancy for more animals to move in. It is more effective to ask yourself why the animals are finding your yard appealing (the answer will probably be either food, water, or shelter) and what you can do to remove what it is that the animal is finding appealing, repel the animal from your yard, and prevent them from returning. Exclusion methods and some degree of tolerance are ultimately more successful and lasting.

Live trapping should never be an option between early spring to early fall. This is the time when most species of native wildlife are having their young and there may be babies in, under, or around your house that are entirely dependent on their mother for food and protection. Any action that prevents the mother from caring for her young will result in suffering for her and a slow death for the babies. Since the family will not stay forever, or even for a very long time (a month or two, perhaps less), it is better to wait until the family vacates and then take action that will prevent the same thing from happening again.

For more information or tips on how to deal with Urban Wildlife:

Wildlife Rescue & Rehabilitation, Inc.
www.wildlife-rescue.org
(210)698-1709

Humane Society of the United States
www.hsus.org

PETA
www.peta.org

Animal Protection Institute
www.api4animals.org

Defenders of Wildlife
www.defenders.org